Yarra Valley pioneers, the de Pury family are renowned for wines of finesse and elegance that epitomise the finest the region can produce. Produced from some of the oldest vines in the valley, these are long-lived wines made in tiny quantities. Yeringberg makes wines from the low-yielding vines re-established on the heart of what was one of the most famous vineyards of the nineteenth century.

It’s well powered and framed, it’s sealed under screw cap, and it’s from a farm noted for the longevity of the wine it produces, among other things, and yet still the back label calmly notes that “it will mature gracefully in the cellar for 5 or 6 years or more”. That’s a fair understatement I would have thought. Red berried fruit flavours edge gently into darker tones, gum leaf and floral aspects add lift, cedarwood oak – still in the process of fully integrating – adds seasoning, and dry, fine tannin, slightly woody tannin runs through the (sustained) finish. Everything is in good order here, and it will age well. Indeed it’s best left alone for a few years to start showing at its best. Tasted: Jan 2022; Alcohol: 13.5%; Price: $85; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2023-2029+; Rated: 93 Points; Campbell Mattinson; The Wine Front

A lot of complexity and savouriness come out to play this vintage, alongside a wonderful coolness across the palate. Expect dark plums, licorice and menthol, juniper, a dash of pepper and roasted root vegetables. It's fuller- bodied, with a covering of textural tannins and bright acidity. Drink to: 2033; Price: $85.00; Date Tasted: Feb 2021; Alcohol: 13%; Rating: 95 Points; Jane Faulkner; James Halliday Wine Companion