An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Lovely perfume here, red and black berries, hazelnut, biscuit spice, mint, even a little choc-liquorice. And don’t mind me, but there’s a bit of a Barolo character to its smell. It’s medium-bodied, a light grip to gently earthy tannin, something of a bouncy/gummy texture that’s very appealing, some pepper and boysenberry, and a firm and ferrous finish of excellent length. It delivers all these things with a certain lightness of touch, though with no shortage of impact. Date: Aug 2023; Alcohol: 13%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2024-2041; Rated: 96 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

Deep, bright red-purple colour; the bouquet confirms this as a fresh young wine, bright and bold, scented with pepper, clove and dried-herb aromas. Medium full bodied, with impact and length, terracotta and dry spices, and the tannins are supple and gentle, balanced and accessible in youth. A very elegant wine for A Clare Valley rendition of these varieties. Date: Aug 2023; Alcohol: 13%; Drink: 2023-2036; Rating: 95 Points; Huon Hooke; The Real Review