An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

The first thing I said from first sip of the 2018 releases was ‘this has very good shape’. Those fine tannins are a feature and highlight, keeping the wine to medium weight with rambunctious scents of just ripe raspberry, faint game meat, potpourri, fennel, Aussie bush and white pepper. Succulent in the palate, fresh and very long, exceptional length and poise. This one is a keeper. Fantastic, finer boned expression. It’s fantastic drinking right now, too. A pedigree wine from hello. Tasted: Aug 2020; Alcohol: 13.6%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2022-2034+; Rated: 96 Points; Mike Bennie; The Wine Front

Honey nuts, red and black fruit, light mint and dried herb and aniseed perfume. Medium-bodied, really supple, almost gummy feel to it, tannin is firm and neatly packed, comes in fresh and more red fruited on the finish, with just a little regional gum leaf. Really good wine. Most approachable of the 2018 releases as at now. Harmonious. Tasted: Aug 2020; Alcohol: 13.6%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2022-2034+; Rated: 95+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

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