An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

A wine that grew in glass substantially with time open. A more savoury expression. Firm and leaner that previous releases, but built for rock-solid cellaring, let’s say. Something guttural in it too. Very Wendouree, also. It opens with that cornucopia of Aussie bushwalk scents of earth, trees, dried leaves, eucalyptus, with black cherry, lavender, brined black olive introduced late in the bouquet. Firm ribs of Italianate tannins tighten and give rails to more of the dark cherry flavours, alongside more brined black olive, dried green herbs. Texture is succulent, grippy from mid-palate to close; I love these tannins, and the finish is a swoosh of dark berry flavours, green-citrus acidity and strong, black bergamot tea. Power, edginess, savoury qualities, in a tightly wound wine. Impressive wine. Tasted: July 19; Alcohol: 13.5%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2026-2050; Rated: 95+ Points; Mike Bennie; The Wine Front

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