An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

I love the meaty hazelnut thing that Mataro brings to the table, and that umami character is strong here. Blackberry, some spice, mint chocolate, camphor in the background. Medium to full-bodied, quite chunky and tannic, perhaps a little raw and blocky, furry maybe, at least within the frame of reference for the 2016 Cabernet / Malbec wines from Wendouree. Acidity is fresh, cool and fine, though the tannin clumps on the finish a little. It’s somewhat primal, and primary. Unresolved, though I suspect time may treat it well. Let’s see. Tasted: Jul 18; Alcohol: 13.7%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2023-2036; Rated: 93+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front