An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

If the straight Shiraz is a bit too strict, then this Shiraz Malbec is the one you turn to for a bit of a cuddle. Plum, flowers, chocolate, aniseed and cedar. It’s medium bodied, but opulent and fleshy, though don’t get the idea that it’s fat or heavy: it’s not. Tannin is fine and chocolaty, and feels almost playful, with a supple graininess, cool acidity, and a black olive and sage savoury finish. Just lovely. More to come mind you. Tasted: Aug 17; Alcohol: 14.1%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2018-2035+; Rated: 95 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

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