An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Bright, clear crimson; medium-bodied, supple and smooth, remarkably so for Wendouree; has great length and elegance, revealing ever more of its future with each sip. Drink by: 2025; Date Tasted: March 2008; Rating: 95 Points; James Halliday Wine Companion

A superlative and evenly ripened wine from this hot vintage, with a deep, dark and brooding bouquet whose deep blackberry and dark plum aromas overlie dusty vanilla oak and suggestions of mint, menthol and cloves. Richly textured and sumptuously flavoured, it’s concentrated and brooding, revealing layers of black and red berry fruit, dark plums and firm, loose-knit tannin culminating in a long, persistent and licorice-like finish. Drink: 2017-2025+; Rating: 95 Points; Jeremy Oliver

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