An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

A blend of Shiraz (80%) and Malbec from 1919 and 1920 Eastern vineyards. It’s good Malbec in 2014, for sure, by any normal standards, but I think it struggled a bit to get over the line this year at Wendouree. Redcurrant and plums, pretty dried rose Malbec perfume, dried herbs, fresh mint and camphor chest. Medium bodied, quite strict with a hardness to the tannin, brisk acidity, redcurrant and fresh raspberry, and a pretty good finish with a dusting of chalky tannin. I’d leave this alone for a few years to let it settle into its skin. Good wine. Vivacious, but kind of stern too. Rating: 93+ Points; Tasted: August 2016; Alcohol: 13.5%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2020-2035; Gary Walsh - The Wine Front

An 80/20% blend from 1919 and ?20 plantings on the Eastern Vineyard. Bright crimson-purple; there is an element of subtle perfume to the bouquet linked to gentle damson fruit that is threaded through the almost silky, medium-bodied palate. If you want to pick one wine to drink first, this is it. But don't be deceived: it will cruise through decades to come. Rating: 95 Points; Drink by: 2034; Date Tasted: June 2016; Alcohol: 13.5%; James Halliday Wine Companion