An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Supple, succulent red of shapely, firm ribbons of tannin, powdery finish, loaded with jolly-jellied plum and blackberries, green herb, pepper, mint and coarse minerally feel. Cassis and dried flowers in perfume too. Bright flavours, tensile and taut, a bit raw and rugged in a way too, though that should be sorted out with time. Just a little mean at present, though some might like that, acidity coarse and zingy to close. Time, sure. But its parts aren’t quite at pace to other years too. Tasted: Aug 2020; Alcohol: 13.5%; Price: $61; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2026-2039+; Rated: 93+ Points; Mike Bennie; The Wine Front

Blackcurrant, port jelly, gum leaf and cedar. Tense and highly strung, grip of chalky and ironstone tannin, quiet succulence of fruit, nice and dark and serious, but also slightly jubey with it. Finish is very long, tight in tannin, and almost tangy fresh. A bit herbal, but hey!, it’s Clare Valley Cabernet, and I don’t mind that at all. Again, a ‘days of yore’ feel to this release. Wait for it. Tasted: Aug 2020; Alcohol: 13.5%; Price: $61; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2026-2039+; Rated: 94+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

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