An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100+-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price.

Lovely perfume of violet, cedar and pencils, blackberry, raspberry, plum and blackcurrant, subtle mintiness, cold brew coffee, maybe. It’s medium-bodied, dense and ferrous, all the ‘mineral’ feel with dense stony tannin, a lot of pencil character, cool fine acidity, and in a way, it comes over kind of like a Yarra Valley Cabernet as much as Clare. Finish offers excellent length, and a slick of cocoa powder tannin. It’s a less concentrated than is usual, a little more autumnal and grainy in tannin, but thoroughly charming, offering a certain ‘coolness’ in feel. Different, but excellent. 96 points by a whisker, if that makes sense. Date: Aug 2022; Alcohol: 13.4%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2024-2040+; Rated: 96 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

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