Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe is the family’s cradle and heart, but also the standard-bearer and flagship of Les Vignobles Brunier. Situated since its origin on Plateau de La Crau, in the southeast of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC, the estate has grown, developed and matured on this vast stony terrace which, generation after generation, has imparted all of its character. Of the 173 acres that form the domaine today, 65 are dedicated to red Châteauneuf-du-Pape and five to white.

Grapes are hand-picked, with double sorting at the vine, followed by a third sorting at the winery. Gentle crushing and selective destemming, followed by 25-40 days' traditional fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless-steel and wooden vats. Pneumatic pressing, then systematic malolactic fermentation.

The final blend of the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau will include 60% to 65% Grenache, 15% each Mourvèdre and Syrah, with the remainder Cinsault. Boasting complex scents of roses, black tea, raspberries and cherries on the nose, it follows that up with a full-bodied palate that’s silky and airy in texture yet flavorful and tremendously long on the finish. It fits perfectly with the Brunier’s stated goal of pursuing elegance. Date: Aug 2019; Rating: 94-96 Points; Joe Czerwinski; Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate

The finished blend that is now aging another year in 60 hectoliter barrels, this has a very fleshy, round, rich and smooth-honed palate that has such completeness already. The raspberries and red plums are stunning here. The tannins are there and very open-knit and there’s a super sapid feel to the finish. The 15% mourvedre does much of the heavy lifting here. It shapes the finish and drags it deep. Around one-third from crushed grapes with stems. Drinkable on release, but best from 2024. Date: July 2019; Rating: 94-95 Points; James Suckling