Nestled in the mountains of northeastern Victoria, just outside the picturesque town of Beechworth, lays the Savaterre vineyard. The site was “discovered“ in 1996 by Keppell Smith, owner and winemaker, after an expansive search through Australia’s quality wine regions. The mild summer days, cool climate elevation combined with the rolling foothills of the Victorian Alps was the magic “terroir” combination sought by Keppell.

Bright medium-light yellow colour; aromas of matchstick/gunflint reduction overlying grapefruit/citrus and biscuit nuances. In the mouth, very intense flavours of tightly focused but generously proportioned citrus/grapefruit and smoked charcuterie—impressively deep and very long-lasting. A great chardonnay of terrific refinement and formidable power. Date: Feb 2025; Alcohol: 13.5%; Price: $120.00; Drink: 2025-2038; Rating: 98 Points; Huon Hooke; The Real Review

A double wow kind of chardonnay, such is the level of deep concentration and the purity of flavour and delivery. Shows a sophisticated side, complex in construction and taste, led by white peach, nectarine, grapefruit pith and peel, spice and a savoury almond influence that lifts both aromatically and flavour-wise. Walks, as ever, a fine line between generosity and fineness, the latter winning the day with some scintillating tangy acid drive in place. And the best part? This still has a long, long journey ahead. Date: Feb 2025; Alcohol: 13.5%; Price: $120.00; Drink by: 2035; Rating: 97 Points & Special Value Star; James Halliday Wine Companion

Lots of struck match that subsides given some air, white peach, citrus, almond, some spice and Japanese ginger. Tight, bright and spicy, grapefruity, lovely acid balance, mid-palate bite and intensity, though it’s a discreetly flavoured wine, and the finish is very long. There’s some almond creaminess in the mix too. It’s a finer and less flavour packed than some of the prior vintages, but gee I love its delicacy. Superb. Date: Feb 2025; Alcohol: 13.4%; Price: $120.00; Drink: 2025-2033+; Rated: 96 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front