Exceptional Langtons Classification. The Rockford wineworks and apparatus on Krondorf Road at Tanunda date back to the 1850s. The artisanal proprietors employ traditional techniques to assemble one of the nation's most singularly commanding wines. Parcels of the best dry grown old vine Shiraz, some of which were planted in the nineteenth century, from a select cabal of growers, operating vineyards in the Barossa, Kalimna and Ebenezer, Moppa Springs and the Eden Valley, are treated to an ancient basket press followed by vinfication in old fashioned open fermentation vessels.

The batches are matured in a selection of mostly well seasoned French and American oak barrels, before a rigorous selection to determine the final assemblage. Deeply coloured wine. A dense bouquet of aromatic dark fruits and berries with a twist of spice before the most engaging palate of reductions, power and richness over background oak and complex spice.

Quintessential Basket Press, bowing to no passing fad or fancy, the high-shouldered, brown glass bottle with Rockford Wines embossed on its base and the distinctive label that will never change because it's so perfect. It's a manifestation of the wine it contains, always very good, this vintage outstanding. I taste well over 5000 wines per year for the Wine Companion, and am never tempted to swallow during a day-long tasting session - well, this wine was the exception to prove the rule. Its balance, mouthfeel and silky purple and black fruits are perfect. Alcohol: 13.8%; Rating: 99 Points; James Halliday Wine Companion