Rene Rostaing worked in real estate before turning his hand to wine in 1971, but it wasn’t until 2000 that he devoted all his time to his estate. Today, he looks after 7.4 hectares across 14 lieux-dits and 20 separate plots in Côte Rôtie. Since 1996 he produces just three wines - the Classic from a blend of 11 different lieux-dits, a seductive Côte Blonde and a densely structured La Landonne. On average 75% of the crop is destemmed and aging is split between 228-litre casks and 550-litre demi-muids, with only 10% of the oak being new. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration. Beautifully detailed wines that show restraint and elegance are the hallmarks of the estate.

The 2016 Cote Rotie La Cote Blonde (from the lieu-dit of the same name—not a blend of sites) is a terrific effort. It blends the structure of la Viallière with the elegance of la Landonne, making it a truly complete and compelling bottle. Some mocha, black olive and meaty notes lend it a savory cast, while the palate is creamy and concentrated, firm but silky. It's medium to full-bodied, with a fine, licorice-tinged finish that lingers a good long time. It should drink well for 20+ years. Drink: 2020-2040, Issue 239; Rating: 98 Points; Joe Czerwinski, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate