Planted in 1989, this tiny 0.25ha vineyard houses the oldest close-planted pinot vines in the Yarra Valley. 30% whole bunches, 17 days on skins. Matured 13 months in barrel, 50% new. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. A very bright, medium, crimson red. Lifted and aromatic with exotic forest-floor fruits, ferrous notes, pomegranate and whole-bunch-derived dried herbs and fennel seeds. The equally impressive palate is concentrated, layered and effortless. This is a pleasure to drink, even now. Ripe, fine and persistent tannins make for a wine that will provide years of enjoyment, but you will need to be quick: only 80 dozen were made. Drink to: 2037; Price: $80.00; Alcohol: 14%; Rating: 96 Points; James Halliday Wine Companion

A tiny patch of Yarra Valley pinot vineyard royalty (0.25 hectares) produces a tiny amount of pinot noir each year. 1000 bottles made. Bottle tasted: 0723. It tastes varietal, there are no problems there, but there’s a strength to this wine, and it defines it. This is tannic, complex, autumnal, fleshed with red and black cherried fruit and smoked with cedarwood oak. It shows undergrowth, it shows tobacco, it shows herbs and crushed spices. Fruit, oak and tannin are all out in force here. It promises to mature majestically. Tasted: November 2023; Price: $80; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2026-2032+; Rated: 95 Points; Campbell Mattinson; The Wine Front