Onannon is the venture of Sam Middleton, Kaspar Hermann and Will Byron, who donated the last two or three letters of their surnames to come up with Onannon. They have many things in common, not the least working vintages at Coldstream Hills, Will for six years, Sam for two (before ultimately returning to the familys winery, Mount Mary) and Kaspar for one. Since then they have bounced between vintages in Burgundy and Australia. Strictly speaking, I should disqualify myself from making any comment about them or their wine, but you would have to go a long way to find three more open-hearted and utterly committed winemakers; the world is their oyster, their ambitions unlimited.

100 percent whole bunch, 9 weeks on skins. Only pumped over and for the last three weeks left locked up and just tasted to access tannin development. 33 percent new oak. Three barrels produced. 

There’s plenty of whole bunch character, though the fruit here is up to the task. Dark raspberry, cherry, peppery and spicy, cardamom pod perfume, with a little toasty oak. Good flavour, density and weight, a dry grip to tannin with the graphite character of whole bunch as a positive, and the finish is long and firm. Nicely done. Very good wine. Date: Jan 2024; Alcohol: 13%; Price: $70; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2024-2030+; Rated: 95 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front