Olivier Merlin is widely regarded as being one of the very finest winemakers in the Mâconnais. He and his wife Corinne began in 1987 by renting 4.5 hectares. from René Gaillard, of Domaine du Vieux Saint-Sorlin, who wished to retire. Since then, Olivier has been buying the property in stages as well as adding new vineyards such as St Véran (in 1994 and ‘96). In September ‘97 Olivier took out a négociant's licence in order to be able to make some Pouilly Fuissé, since land in this appellation is neither available to buy nor to rent.

The 2020 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, from 50 to 60-year old vines, was the first cuvée to be bottled this year. The nose has superior definition to the regular cuvée with green apple and granite. The palate is well balanced, very elegant with hints of ginger and blackberry leaf on the slightly honeyed finish. Lovely. Drink: 2023 - 2036; Rating: 91 Points; Neal Martin; Vinous