Mount Mary is one of the great small wineries of Australia, established by Dr John Middleton in 1972. Production is tiny. Mount Mary is noted for both the character and high quality of its wines. Since the first vintage in 1976, it has established itself as one of Australia's most highly regarded producers, commanding a mythical status among wine collectors. The vineyard faces due north and captures optimum sunlight during the growing season. The purity of fruit, poise and structure of Quintet, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot blend, epitomises the estate. It resonates with individuality of place and Dr John’s fastidious respect for the landscape. Mount Mary has continued to take great steps forward while staying true to the vision of Dr John, whose son David oversees the business while grandson Sam Middleton has taken on the winemaking mantle with aplomb.

A 65/25/10% blend of sauvignon blanc/semillon/muscadelle.

Triolet is a gently mid-weighted wine of refined detail and exquisite restraint, so much so that those who seek obvious fruit fail to understand it. It is a wine that ages with prowess, too. Indeed, the finest aged white I have experienced across the New World was older Triolet. Lanolin, lemon drop, quince and nettle push long across a meld of effusive energy and extract. The oak, subtly compressing the fray into a bone of tension. Excellent finish. Drinking this is an emotional experience, pushing the exhilaration meter up a notch. Best after 2027. Rating: 98 Points; Ned Goodwin MW; James Suckling

A 65/25/10% blend of sauvignon blanc/semillon/muscadelle. Crushed and destemmed with 20% whole bunches in the press. Barrel fermented and matured for 11 months in seasoned barriques. A stunning Triolet with its aromas of greengages, white nectarine, Meyer lemon, lemongrass and jasmine. There's a hint of sandalwood coming from the oak. Seductive, powerful and restrained. Slippery, chalky textured, tightly wound and very long, this is going to be a great and long-lived wine. In a league of its own. Date: Feb 2023; Alcohol: 12.8%; Price: $120.00; Drink by: 2032; Rating: 98 Points & Special Value Star; Philip Rich; James Halliday Wine Companion

65% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Semillon, 10% Muscadelle. One of the nicest BDX blends I’ve had, was the 1985 Haut Brion Blanc. I say this, because many don’t recognise how good these blends can be, not least with bottle age. This is a complete wine. There’s guava, lime, lemongrass, a subtle smoky matchstick edge, lemon thyme, passionfruit pith, white flowers, a little cedar and aniseed. Tight, flinty, a burst of flavour, yet so controlled, pink grapefruit, lime rind, thistle, umami Parmesan rind, so much energy and presence, and the finish is so long and cool. There’s not many SSB blends as good as this, from anywhere. Insanely good. Date: Aug 2023; Alcohol: 12.8%; Price: $120; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2024-2035+; Rated: 96+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front