Mount Mary is one of the great small wineries of Australia, established by Dr John Middleton in 1972. Production is tiny. Mount Mary is noted for both the character and high quality of its wines. Since the first vintage in 1976, it has established itself as one of Australia's most highly regarded producers, commanding a mythical status among wine collectors. The vineyard faces due north and captures optimum sunlight during the growing season. The purity of fruit, poise and structure of Quintet, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot blend, epitomises the estate. It resonates with individuality of place and Dr John’s fastidious respect for the landscape. Mount Mary has continued to take great steps forward while staying true to the vision of Dr John, whose son David oversees the business while grandson Sam Middleton has taken on the winemaking mantle with aplomb.

100% destemmed and fermented with as many whole berries as possible. Left to soak for four days, pre-fermentation with one pump over per day, then plunged three times per day. 15 months in French barriques (25% new). A bright crimson red. Perfumed and seductive even at this early stage. Aromas of wild red berries, gentle spice, dark rose and bracken. Concentrated and structured with very fine, sinewy and savoury tannins. A brilliant, non-mainstream Yarra Valley pinot that's been built to go the distance. Date: Feb 2023; Alcohol: 13.3%; Drink by: 2035; Rating: 97 Points; Philip Rich; James Halliday Wine Companion

The winemaking investment in the pinot noir has been substantial. Maker Sam Middleton eschews the common regional recipe of whole-bunches, instead maximizing whole berries. These are extracted judiciously with pump-overs and plunging, a sure way to avoid soft, hollow wines. The defining factor of these pinots is the lack of obvious fruit, Middleton’s aim. This is my type of ideology, with riffs on root spice, damson, quince paste and griotte, that sweet cherry scent seldom found in pinot outside of great Burgundy. A stunning pinot. I may be underscoring it. Drinkable now, but best from 2026. Rating: 96 Points; Ned Goodwin MW; James Suckling

Ripe strawberry, a little spice, pretty too with some rose and chamomile, mint and undergrowth. It’s medium-bodied, red berries and honey, with a savoury tobacco edge, the quality of tannin is excellent here, offering grip and a sort of tea leaf character, which puts me in mind of Barbaresco (though don’t mind me), and the finish is long, firm and shapely, and kind of ferrous and minerally. It feels young and pent up as at now, to some extent, though I reckon it will evolve into a classic MM Pinot with considered cellaring. A terrific release. Date: Aug 2023; Alcohol: 13.3%; Closure: Cork; Drink: 2026-2038+; Rated: 96 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front