Domaine Labruyère is the Beaujolais estate of the top-flight French vigneron family behind Champagne Labruyère and famed Burgundy producer Jacques Prieur. Now in its seventh generation, Domaine Labruyère is one of the oldest wineries in the Moulin-a-Vent appellation. Its history here dates back to 1850, when wine grower Jean-Marie Labruyère settled in les Thorins, a hamlet of Romanèche-Thorins.

This rich and fleshy Moulin-a-Vent has stacks of licorice and smoke character alongside the blackberry fruit. It is rather gentle on the front palate, but it has quite some tannic power at the finish. Drink or hold. Tasted: February 2023; Rating: 91 Points; James Suckling