Born in Dijon to a non-winemaking family, Julien Sunier decided in his teens to pursue a career in wine. His interest was fostered by Christophe Roumier. After studying oenology and viticulture at university, Julien did work experience with Roumier and with Jasper Morris MW, in Jasper’s days running Morris & Verdin. In 2007 Julien purchased two hectares in Fleurie, which he farmed organically from the outset. Today his domaine extends to a little over five hectares,with holdings in Fleurie (Niagara), Régnié (Cote du Py) and Morgon (Corcelette and En Oeillat).

Dusty, peppery, blue fruit and cherry, roses and spice, and distinctly ‘mineral’ in character, some lift. It’s medium-bodied, all the graphite and blue fruit, has flavour, but gee it’s refined and tight. Hibiscus perfume, dusty texture, such a fine line of ripe acidity with an oatmeal and cinnamon finish of excellent length. Rare elegance. I love it. Date: Jan 2024; Alcohol: 13%; Price: $92; Closure: Cork; Drink: 2023-2030; Rated: 95 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front