Born in Dijon to a non-winemaking family, Julien Sunier decided in his teens to pursue a career in wine. His interest was fostered by Christophe Roumier. After studying oenology and viticulture at university, Julien did work experience with Roumier and with Jasper Morris MW, in Jasper’s days running Morris & Verdin. In 2007 Julien purchased two hectares in Fleurie, which he farmed organically from the outset. Today his domaine extends to a little over five hectares,with holdings in Fleurie (Niagara), Régnié (Cote du Py) and Morgon (Corcelette and En Oeillat).

Dark cherry, liquorice, floral notes, a smoky damp earth character, spice. It’s firm with a slurry of stony tannin, kind of gamey and wild, but the dark fruit and texture here carries it along, as does the fine ‘mineral’ line of acidity. The finish is smoky, but also sweet in dark berry fruit. It opens up and builds weight and perfume with some time in glass (or decanter), revealing rose petals, sour cherry and raspberry. Yes, it’s a little rustic, but I really like it. Date: Jan 2024; Alcohol: 12.5%; Price: $95; Closure: Cork; Drink: 2024-2028+; Rated: 94 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front