Established in 1975 by Ron and Elva Laughton, Jasper Hill producers some of Australia’s most compelling and sought after wines. Located at Heathcote in Central Victoria on ancient Cambrian soils-deep, red coloured, well drained gravely loams on undulating hillsides. These support low-vigour vine growth without the need for  supplementary irrigation.

The wines are produced entirely on the estate using organic/biodynamic principles. Inter row mulching and self made organic compost is used to improve soil organic matter. This allows greater bio-diversity in micro flora and fauna, supporting large earthworm populations beneficial for natural soil fertility. Following these principles no synthetic chemicals have ever been applied to the soils or vines. Vines are grown on un-grafted root-stock and non irrigated, expressing flavours and characteristics natural to their variety and terroir. Grown at elevations of 1000 feet the vines benefit from warm days but cool nights, imperative for natural acid retention and structure. None of the wines from Jasper Hill vineyards has even been acid adjusted at any stage. These are natural wines of striking purity.

A pretty and intense nose of blackcurrants, anise and violets. At first, it doesn't give away much, it's very composed and stealthy in its expression. With air, hints of iodine, pepper and bush spices arise. A bomb of flavour explodes on the palate—black olives, violets and sweet spices are framed by powdery tannins. The tannin quality is a stand-out, it's so fine yet long and sleek. This is ripe and full-bodied yet everything is perfectly jigsawed into place, nothing seems forced. In its youth, It's a touch apprehensive to reveal all, but this is a wine meant for aging. Palate staining, formidable stuff. Date: Aug 2023; Drink: 2023–2035; Rating: 96 Points; The Real Review

Sports slightly higher alcohol than usual (15.5%), but it's carried well, managed by firm structural tannins. A youngster, it deserves a thorough slosh before serving, time to release those captive aromas and flavours of briar, blackcurrant, plum, blueberry, savoury olive and spice. Full-bodied but lively, it delivers a powerful presence in the glass, seamless and firm, dark fruited and spicy, running deep and long to the finish. Rating: 96 Points; James Halliday Wine Companion