The first traces of the Hugel family in Alsace can be traced back to the XVth century. Some two centuries later, Hans Ulrich Hugel settled in Riquewihr, which had been devastated by the terrible Thirty Years War. In 1639 he was made a freeman of the city and soon took charge of the very powerful Corporation of Winegrowers. In 1672 his son built a fine house in the Rue des Cordiers, and over the doorway was carved the family crest which was the origin of the company’s logo still used today.

It is now the most planted varietal in Alsace. Delicate, subtle and well built, it makes an excellent aperitif because, although nicely rounded, it is also refreshing. The perfect all-purpose dry white wine, it is not far in style from an unoaked Chardonnay such as a Macon or Chablis.

Previous vintage review: Almonds and cherry blossom, citrus and loquat. Medium-bodied with lithe and juicy fruit, some good, textural mouth feel and a fine finish. Drink now. Rating: 91 Points; James Suckling