The Holyman family had been involved in vineyards in Tasmania for 20 years, but Joe Holyman's career in the wine industry, first as a sales rep, then as a wine buyer, and more recently working in wineries in NZ, Portugal, France, Mount Benson and Coonawarra, gave him an exceptionally broad-based understanding of wine. In 2004 Joe and wife Lou purchased the former Rotherhythe Vineyard, which had been established in 1986, and set about restoring it to its former glory. There are two ranges: the Stoney Rise wines, focusing on fruit and early drinkability, and the Holyman wines, with more structure, more new oak and the best grapes, here the focus on length and potential longevity.

All estate fruit from 1986-planted vines on Joe and Lou Holyman's Gravelly Beach estate. Pale straw with aromas of white peach, citrus and nectarine and hints of struck match, oatmeal, almond meal, white flowers, crushed stone and a gentle whiff of almond paste. Beautifully balanced with plenty of tension and light on the palate. Textural, too, with a swell of oatmeal and fine, briny acidity lending sapidity and a wonderful energy to the long finish. Date: Sept 2024; Alcohol: 12.5%; Price: $60.00; Drink by: 2032; Rating: 97 Points & Special Value Star; James Halliday Wine Companion

Here’s a very fine iteration of Holyman Chardonnay. There’s a whisper of struck match, some oyster shell, white nectarine, lemon zest, grapefruit, some lightly toasty cinnamon oak, with some vanilla nougat too. It’s crisp with cool acidity, quite saline, lemon biscuits, grapefruit and green melon, a nougat gloss, a fine grip of chalky texture, and a very long spicy finish. Terrific. Give it another year or so to settle in. Date: Sept 2024; Alcohol: 12.5%; Price: $60; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2025-2034+; Rated: 96 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front