The Holyman family had been involved in vineyards in Tasmania for 20 years, but Joe Holyman's career in the wine industry, first as a sales rep, then as a wine buyer, and more recently working in wineries in NZ, Portugal, France, Mount Benson and Coonawarra, gave him an exceptionally broad-based understanding of wine. In 2004 Joe and wife Lou purchased the former Rotherhythe Vineyard, which had been established in 1986, and set about restoring it to its former glory. There are two ranges: the Stoney Rise wines, focusing on fruit and early drinkability, and the Holyman wines, with more structure, more new oak and the best grapes, here the focus on length and potential longevity.

Joe Holyman is without doubt producing some of the most delicious chardonnay in Tasmania. From estate-grown, 36-year-old vines overlooking the Tamar River, they are wines that speak clearly of their site, with maritime clarity and a briny cut. Linear and detailed, they conjure up images of a chablis-like sapidity and focus, with citrus and white peach fruits, soft spice, sea spray, struck flint, petrichor, wildflowers, vanillin oak, lemon zest and crushed stone. Loaded with umami and vivid minerally precision. Superb. Date: Feb 2024; Alcohol: 12%; Price: $60.00; Drink by: 2033; Rating: 96 Points & Special Value Star; James Halliday Wine Companion

Holyman Chardonnay one of the best in the county for me. Lots of cinnamon spice, brioche, toast and struck match, but also quite a lot of seaweed and brine, in with that lemon zest, white peach and green melon. It’s tight, almost electric in intensity, with a saline fino sherry-like tang and zesty umami flavour. And length to go. Feels very coiled and reticent as at now. Sharp steel. Distinctive. So much energy. Wait. Date: Sept 2023; Alcohol: 12.5%; Price: $60; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2025-2033; Rated: 95+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front