Hillcrest Vineyard is a micro-boutique maker of individual, classically styled wines. Its owners, David and Tanya Bryant, look to the best producers from the famous French regions of Burgundy and Bordeaux as both their inspiration and benchmark. The style of the wines is clearly influenced by the art of Old World viticulture and winemaking, yet possess an added element of richness which is a distinctive feature of Australian wines. The great, old wines of Burgundy were renowned for this feature, and at Hillcrest it is brought to life in this thoughtful emulation of the great old wines of France.

Drawing on their small 48 year-old vineyard in Victoria's famous Yarra Valley wine region, David and Tanya spent the best part of a decade working with one of Australia's most highly regarded winemakers, Phillip Jones of Bass Phillip fame. During this time, they patiently observed and learned, progressively assuming more winemaking control each vintage, and now blend what has been an invaluable education with their own style and meticulous approach in the vineyard and winery.

I think vintage 2015 will be seen as especially strong for Yarra Valley Cabernet. Some of the oldest vines in the Yarra Valley here, planted in 1970. Opens with a whiff of tomato paste and herb rolled black olives, but clears to black fruits, black tea perfume, cedar and rich dark shag tobacco. Medium bodied, superb etch of acidity and graphite tannin lends a convincing ‘minerally’ feel, savoury and tense, that black tea flavour runs through the wine, and the finish is essence of blackberry and blackcurrant, with forest berry acidity drawing out the strings. That palate though, wow. Tasted: Feb 2017; Price: $110; Closure: Cork; Drink: 2019-2035; Rating: 96 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front