Mark Walpole is arguably one of Australia's greatest viticulturalists and his interest in cool climate viticulture led him from his home in the Ovens Valley to the elevated Beechworth plateau at the top of the Escarpment above the Murmungee basin. His wines combine a unique expression of the vineyard site, its management; and the greater regional influences. The red wines are made using minimal intervention, using indigenous yeasts and open fermentation. Whites are barrel fermented using both indigenous and cultured yeasts depending on variety and style.

From vines planted in 1978, fermented and matured for 18 months in new and used French oak, partial mlf. The power, intensity and depth of the wine comes from the low yield of these venerable vines. Ripe white nectarine/peach is offset by grapefruit pith and flinty acidity.

This is a powerful wine, though what I like most about it, is that it does not come at the expense of charm and drinking appeal. White peach, almond meal, pink grapefruit, biscuit spices, a little struck match adds complexity, and there’s fennel and floral perfume too. It offers fine chalky grip, a burst of grapefruit acidity through white stone fruits, and the finish is all ripe lime juice, spicy, perfumed and offers superb length. A complete wine. Beautiful. Date: Feb 2025; Alcohol: 13.5%; Price: $85; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2026-2034+; Rated: 97 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front