Mark Walpole is arguably one of Australia's greatest viticulturalists and his interest in cool climate viticulture led him from his home in the Ovens Valley to the elevated Beechworth plateau at the top of the Escarpment above the Murmungee basin. His wines combine a unique expression of the vineyard site, its management; and the greater regional influences. The red wines are made using minimal intervention, using indigenous yeasts and open fermentation. Whites are barrel fermented using both indigenous and cultured yeasts depending on variety and style.

An impressively fragrant, sunny and complex chardonnay from a former Halliday Viticulturist of the Year – the man knows how to both grow and make superb chardonnay with a tapered elegance. Aromas to excite in apple blossom, honeysuckle, nectarine, peach, citrus and grilled nuts. Makes a persuasive argument for further ageing, but who can go past that plush, textural palate immersed in summer stone fruits, oatmeal, roast nuts and struck match enhanced by some striking Beechworth acidity? Not me. It's way too tempting. Date: Oct 2024; Alcohol: 13.5%; Price: $55.00; Drink by: 2030; Rating: 95 Points; James Halliday Wine Companion