When Hilde and Ian (Duke) Ranson sold their clothing manufacturing business in 1998, they were able to fulfil a long-held dream of establishing a vineyard in the Porongurup subregion of Great Southern with the acquisition of a 65ha farm at the foot of the Porongurup Range. They planted shiraz and cabernet sauvignon and riesling. Hilde, a successful artist, designed the beautiful, scalloped, glasswalled cellar door sales area, with its mountain blue cladding. The appointment of Rob Diletti as winemaker will, if it were possible, increase the quality of the wines.

Magpie Hill Reserve Riesling is the product of the vision of Duke’s Vineyard owner Ian (Duke) Ranson and his wife Hilde. Their first vines were planted in 1999 for Duke’s 60th birthday beginning what was their 20-year ‘retirement’ plan. In their last vintage for actual retirement, their faith in their Porongurup terroir with major national coverage of their near perfect wine. Expect purity, elegance and drive.

From a single vineyard, whole-bunch pressed and fermented solely in tank to preserve the pristine freshness endemic to the rieslings from the area. A super-floral nose leads into a tense and citrus-driven palate. The acidity is saline and omnipresent, curling and flicking around the fruit, shaping it all through the long finish. This has already developed and grown so much in the bottle between this glass and the last (a couple of months prior), that it surely has a very long road ahead of it. White pepper, lime flesh and laser-like precision through the finish. Layered and dappled – gorgeous. Alcohol: 11.8%; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: to 2041; Rating: 97 Points & Special Value Star; Erin Larkin; James Halliday Wine Companion