Given land prices in Burgundy today, the creation of a fine domaine without benefit of inheritance seems almost impossible. Almost. Jacques Seysses managed, beginning in the mid 1960's, and today this Morey based domain has enviable 12ha, including parcels in 5 Grand Crus. Seysses doesn't use press-wines, keeps the fermentation and cuvasion relatively cool, and racks as often as necessary in order to get rid of savoury flavours - yet he does (like his friend Aubert de Villaine at DRC) use all the stems and he also uses new, lightly toasted wood. The result is often wine of relatively pale colour and soft texture, yet great depth, fruit and refinement.

Somewhat surprisingly the nose is quite reserved with its brooding array of various dark berries, violet, lavender and a whisper of herbal tea. The succulent and exceptionally rich, even opulent, flavors also coat the palate with an abundance of sap that does a quality job of buffering the markedly firm tannic spine shaping the beautifully persistent finale. This is more robust than usual but a wine that should repay extended cellaring. Date: Jan 2022; Drink: 2032+; Issue: 85; Comments: Outstanding; Rating 91-94 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound

In bottle. A rich deep even crimson purple colour. Ripe nose almost going too far. Quite sweet fruit with some black cherry notes, a little low in acidity. For once I have a clear preference for the Morey St-Denis 1er Cru. Date: Dec 2021; Rating: 92 Points; Insideburgundy.com