Dr Loosen has been in the same family for more than 200 years and its present guardian, Ernst Loosen, is one of the great characters of the wine world. He assumed ownership of the estate in 1988 and immediately realised that, with ungrafted vines averaging 70 years of age, in some of Germany's best-rated vineyards, gave him the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. To achieve this, he dramatically reduced his crop size and stopped all chemical fertilisation, preferring only moderate use of organic fertilisers. And, most importantly, he turned to gentler cellar practices that allow the wine to develop its full potential with a minimum of handling and technological meddling.

The "Sundial of Wehlen" is one of the greatest vineyards in the Middle Mosel. The soil is almost nothing but broken shards of blue Devonian slate, which gives a lively minerality to the wines. Citrus and white peach flavours predominate when the wines are young, turning to a pure expression of the mineral soil as they age. 100% Riesling from vines of more than 100 years of age. Fermented with indigenous yeast in a 3,000-litre, neutral oak, cask; matured on the full lees for 12 months; no bâtonnage.

The 2021 Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG Alte Reben shows an intense, elegant and coolish bouquet of ripe, bright fruits and flint stones. Lush and round on the palate, this is a supple, salivating, saline and juicy WSU with an intense and substantial finish. This is gorgeous and kind of hedonistic yet with the clear and defined 2021 acidity. Excellent. 12.5% alcohol. Tasted as a sample at the domaine in July 2022. To be bottled in October. Date: Aug 2022; Drink: 2023-2050; Rating: 94-95 Points; Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate

The 2021er Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Alte Reben, as it is referred to on the main label (the reference to GG is left for the back label), comes from very old un-grafted vines in the prime Gewann Laychen (central part) and Sandpichter (near Zeltingen) sectors, and was fermented with ambient yeasts and aged in oak for almost 12 months. It offers a very subtle nose made of white flowers, herbs, and spices. The wine is juicy and packed with minerals, fruits, and floral flavors on the palate. It leaves a remarkably playful feel in the focused and yet quite complex finish. Drink: 2028-2041; Rating: 93+ Points; Mosel Fine Wine