Dr Loosen has been in the same family for more than 200 years and its present guardian, Ernst Loosen, is one of the great characters of the wine world. He assumed ownership of the estate in 1988 and immediately realised that, with ungrafted vines averaging 70 years of age, in some of Germany's best-rated vineyards, gave him the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. To achieve this, he dramatically reduced his crop size and stopped all chemical fertilisation, preferring only moderate use of organic fertilisers. And, most importantly, he turned to gentler cellar practices that allow the wine to develop its full potential with a minimum of handling and technological meddling.

Ürzig produces wines of a completely unique nature, showcasing the typically exotic fruit flavours of the “spice garden”, with a rich texture, gentle acidity and lingering finish. It's 100% Riesling grown on red volcanic sandstone. Vines are more than 100 years old, on original rootstocks. Fermented with indigenous yeasts in traditional 1,000-litre Fuder casks; matured on the full lees for 12 months; no bâtonnage.

The 2021 Ürziger Würzgarten GG Alte Reben offers a clear, beautifully refined and flinty bouquet of ripe and elegant Riesling fruit spiced with stony splinters. Lush and refined on the palate, this is a very elegant, saline and textured Riesling with enormous salinity in the mouth-watering, rich and intense finish. Definitely the finest GG of the vintage here. 12.5% alcohol. Tasted as a sample at the domaine in July 2022. To be bottled in October. Date: Aug 2022; Drink: 2023-2050; Rating: 95-96 Points; Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate

Riesling Alte Reben, as it is referred to on the main label (the reference to GG is left for the back label), comes from parcels of very old un-grafted vines in the prime Unterst and Oberst Pichter, Maxberg, and Layenhaus sectors, and was fermented with ambient yeasts and aged in oak for almost 12 months. It offers a beautiful nose made of elderflower, cassis, passion fruit, subtle elements of whipped cream, and fine smoke. The wine is smooth rather than bone-dry on the fruit-driven palate and leaves a nice feel of vineyard peach, whipped cream, and floral elements in the long and juicy finish. The aftertaste is linear and subtly tart. Drink: 2028-2041; Rating: 93 Points; Mosel Fine Wine