A surf trip to California in 1999, supported by some winery work with his winemaker uncle on the central coast, turned Shaun Crinion’s fledgling interest in wine into a lifelong obsession. Over that time, his winemaking philosophy has evolved into a light-handed approach of minimal intervention and scant addition, focusing on the pure expression of site and fruit – ‘I’m a traditionalist, hands-on winemaker and I like it that way.’ With that confidence of direction, Shaun started his own venture in 2009, ‘with the view to make high quality unadulterated wines from special patches of dirt at realistic prices.’

Lots of exotic spice here, and in particular cardamom pods, a little roast red capsicum, pencils, cherry, roasted beets, dried herbs, and some jamon and grilled meat. It’s medium-bodied, quite sappy, again all the ground spice, a distinct blood orange and amaro twang, with a lively and sandy tannin finish of good length. Lots of energy to this wine, albeit kind of bitter, though I like that. Strawberry and zesty tang closes it out. Date: Nov 2024; Alcohol: 13%; Price: $60; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2024-2033; Rated: 94 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front