A surf trip to California in 1999, supported by some winery work with his winemaker uncle on the central coast, turned Shaun Crinion’s fledgling interest in wine into a lifelong obsession. Over that time, his winemaking philosophy has evolved into a light-handed approach of minimal intervention and scant addition, focusing on the pure expression of site and fruit – ‘I’m a traditionalist, hands-on winemaker and I like it that way.’ With that confidence of direction, Shaun started his own venture in 2009, ‘with the view to make high quality unadulterated wines from special patches of dirt at realistic prices.

Plenty of struck match, a bran flakes richness, white peach, grapefruit, cinnamon and assorted spice. It’s saline and savoury, with chicken skin umami character, pulling not so fruity, but does have presence, there’s flint and bacon bones, a lively core of pulpy grapefruit acidity, with a salty and nutty finish of good length. A bit wild, yeah, but engaging all the same. Date: Nov 2024; Alcohol: 13%; Price: $60; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2024-2030; Rated: 92 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front