It has been a remarkable journey for Clonakilla. When John Kirk planted the first vines in 1971 he had no idea that his vineyard would one day be celebrated as one of the best in the country. Along the way there have been trials and tribulations as well as moments of unprecendented success. Over time something important has become clear: Murrumbateman and Shiraz are one of those rare combinations in the world of wine that can produce something truly exciting.

The Shiraz Vioginer is a selection of the best Shiraz Viognier parcels, crafted from the Murrumbateman vineyard.

There is at once a distinguished calm on display here that sings to the anthem of an effortless, extended, cool ripening season, and at the same time a rising crescendo of flamboyant spice, white pepper, pot pourri and florals. “A towering monument to shiraz viognier. A benchmark. A revelation.” Monumental gravitas is declared in granitic tannins of super-fine texture, enlivened by the fantastic tension of cool-season acidity, together promising a lifespan at the outer realms of Clonakilla potential. A towering monument to shiraz viognier. A benchmark. A revelation. Rating: 98 Points; Tyson Stelzer

A cooler year has produced a pared-back, elegant and finer style that’s as exciting as any vintage. It’s peppery, spicy, a little sappy, laden with cranberries, pomegranate tartness, amaro and rosehips – quite exotic really. Accents on red cherries and red plums with oak spices and woodsy inputs bolstering the flavour profile and structure. It’s medium bodied, with the filagree tannins etched in as the acidity takes the lead to finish long and pure. Lovely now, and in good time, it will blossom further. Date: Aug 2023; Alcohol: 13%; Price: $120.00; Drink by: 2035; Rating: 96 Points; Jane Faulkner; James Halliday Wine Companion

The cool vintage writ large, indeed. Beauty in quiet spaces. It’s a compact and fresh-feeling release, gossamer threads drawn in a complex tapestry. Perfume is pretty, rose petals, violet this year, red cherry, fresh and sour, woody spices in clove and cinnamon, a touch of alpine herb. The palate is lacy, light on and quite transparent, a touch diffuse at present, but draws on its sheath of feathery tannin to tighten nicely, let’s say fine structure, while cooler red fruit flavours, woody and smoky spices lend character gently, but with potential on show. Right now, pianissimo as they say, but wait for the crescendo to come. Date: Aug 2023; Alcohol: 13%; Price: $120; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2025-2040+; Rated: 95+ Points; Campbell Mattinson; The Wine Front