It has been a remarkable journey for Clonakilla. When John Kirk planted the first vines in 1971 he had no idea that his vineyard would one day be celebrated as one of the best in the country. Along the way there have been trials and tribulations as well as moments of unprecendented success. Over time something important has become clear: Murrumbateman and Shiraz are one of those rare combinations in the world of wine that can produce something truly exciting.

Crisp natural acidity backs up lovely floral, citrus-edged fruit with a textural edge that makes it easy on the palate. Drinks beautifully now and, like all our Rieslings, has cellaring potential for up to 15 years.

This riesling stands out. It has intensity and it has length, and that’s why it’s an excellent wine, from an excellent season, worthy of a high score. But that’s not what makes it stand out. It’s the slatey, concrete-y, tonic-like side to it, the purity that seems other than fruit, and the amelioration of softness inherent in such characters, that makes you feel as though you’ve stepped into something that’s better than what’s come before. Date: Jul 2024; Alcohol: 11.5%; Price: $35; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2024-2039+; Rated: 95 Points; Campbell Mattinson; The Wine Front