Nick and Gary Farr stand side by side, but aren’t afraid to go head-to-head when their opinions differ. Each generation has developed a distinctive winemaking style based on his individual experience and taste, and their respective lines—By Farr by Gary, and Farr Rising by Nick—have received critical acclaim both in Australia and overseas.

Shiraz fruit comes from the original By Farr vineyard, planted in 1994. It lies on a north-facing slope, and the red volcanic soil has a base of limestone with deep-set sandstone. All fruit is hand-picked from the VSP trellising, with 20 per cent left as whole bunches in the fermentation. Most years we co-ferment between 2 and 4 per cent viognier with the shiraz, the date determining whether or not the former is co-fermented and bled back. It is a natural fermentation, with the fruit remaining in the tank for 19 days before pressing. Shiraz sees 18 months in French oak, 20 per cent being new, and is bottled under vacuum.

A powerful nose, with the depth and complexity of cool-climate shiraz. This wine is spiced with pepper and mineral elements, leaning towards earthy. The co-fermented viognier adds a little richness to both the bouquet and palate, which has a very pleasant sweetness to start, followed by intense fruit and earthy long tannins to complete the delicate structure and overall elegance of the wine.

Deep, bright red with a good rim of purple leads into a super-aromatic peppery, vegetal and spicy bouquet. There is an earthiness on the mid-palate and refreshing but not overt acidity, the weight is medium to full bodied and the tannins subtly drying and savoury, in perfect balance with the weight and fruit intensity. A stylish and beautiful cool-grown shiraz in what called be termed a 'syrah' style. Date: Sept 2023; Alcohol: 13.5%; Drink: 2023-2041; Rating: 98 Points; Huon Hooke; The Real Review