This is one of the finest white Burgundy estates, where the wine-making involves minimal interventions. It is run by Jean-Marc Blain and his wife Claudine, the daughter of Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange. The family owns some of the village’s greatest hillsides. New oak barrels are never used to excess, being subtly spread amongst the different cuvées, so that spicy oakiness is never perceptible here. Blain is also prudent with stirring-up of the lees (known as bâtonnage) which, if used to excess, may result in heavy wines which taste mealy. Here, on the contrary, the finished wines have great purity of fruit, with balanced acidity and long, clean flavours which clearly evoke the wines’ precise origins.

A beautifully layered nose reflects notes of white flowers, mineral reduction and a plethora of spice elements. Once again there is a lovely texture to the intense, concentrated, mouthcoating and unusually powerful middleweight flavors that display excellent length on the youthfully austere and agreeably dry finish. The Blain whites invariably age well and this should be no exception. Date: Jun 2024; Drink: 2029+; Issue: 95; Comments: Outstanding;  Rating: 92 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound