Given land prices in Burgundy today, the creation of a fine domaine without benefit of inheritance seems almost impossible. Almost. Jacques Seysses managed, beginning in the mid 1960's, and today this Morey based domain has enviable 12ha, including parcels in 5 Grand Crus. Seysses doesn't use press-wines, keeps the fermentation and cuvasion relatively cool, and racks as often as necessary in order to get rid of savoury flavours - yet he does (like his friend Aubert de Villaine at DRC) use all the stems and he also uses new, lightly toasted wood. The result is often wine of relatively pale colour and soft texture, yet great depth, fruit and refinement.

Moderate reduction is enough to blur the nuances of what are clearly ripe fruit. On the plus side, there is more size, weight and power to the bigger-bodied flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract that helps to buffer the noticeably firmer and moderately rustic finale. Patience strongly advised. Date: Jan 2024; Drink: 2034+; Issue: 93; Comments: Outstanding; Rating 91-93 Points; Allen Meadows; Burghound

From the usual four vineyards. Deep crimson. The bouquet has quite an elegant style even if the individual fruits are not yet quite with us. Quite a firm structure behind but sitting well with the deep red fruit. Balanced and stylish, with good ageing potential. Drink: 2031-2038; Rating: 92-95 Points, Jasper Morris; Inside Burgundy 

Revealing aromas of dark plums and cherries mingled with baking spices and orange zest, the 2022 Morey-SaintDenis 1er Cru is medium to full-bodied, supple and charming, with a velvety attack that segues into a rich core of fruit that's framed by powdery tannins and lively acids. As ever, it's the sleeper of the Dujac portfolio. Date: Jan 2024; Rating: 92-94 Points; William Kelley; Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate

According to Jeremey Seysses: 'If you wanted to make something impenetrable, you could in 2022'. This wine is hardly impenetrable, but it is firm and tannic. There is a pleasantly ripe blackberry fruit aroma with notes of earth and mint, and the grippy texture brings lovely length to the wine. According to Seysses, they were trying to slow down extraction here. In 2022, the team did one pigeage every two days and a total maceration of 11 – 12 days instead of 15 – 18 days. The results are convincing indeed. Drink: 2028-2055; Rating: 95 Points; Charles Curtis MW; Decanter