Dr Loosen has been in the same family for more than 200 years and its present guardian, Ernst Loosen, is one of the great characters of the wine world. He assumed ownership of the estate in 1988 and immediately realised that, with ungrafted vines averaging 70 years of age, in some of Germany's best-rated vineyards, gave him the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. To achieve this, he dramatically reduced his crop size and stopped all chemical fertilisation, preferring only moderate use of organic fertilisers. And, most importantly, he turned to gentler cellar practices that allow the wine to develop its full potential with a minimum of handling and technological meddling.

This entry-level Dr. Loosen Riesling embodies the elegant and racy characteristics of steep, slate-soil Mosel vineyards at a very reasonable price. It is a bright, vibrant, fruit-driven wine made with grapes from contracted growers throughout the Mosel River valley who work very closely with brothers Ernst and Thomas Loosen to achieve excellent quality and superb concentration in every vintage.

From Loosen Bros, an entry level Riesling. Starts ripe with nectarines, honey and sweet seductive perfume, Golden Delicious apples. It's beautifully expressive, lemon balm, waxy skins and lemon curd, golden kiwi. Smooth flavours, more savoury and lemony than the nose. They slip through the palate and linger in the back with a bit of a salty quality and more of that yellow fruit weight. White pepper spice chimes in at the end. Pretty good entry-level stuff and off-dry too. Alcohol: 8.5%; Price: $24; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2023-2030; Rated: 91 Points; The Wine Front